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Maintaining with the Kardashians curvy brunette wife Is Ending. However Their Exploitation of Black Women’s Aesthetics Continues

- Cady Lang @cadylang

'It’s no secret that they’ve adopted many kinds that Black ladies have created and made them more palatable'

The inaugural episode of Keeping up with the Kardashians, which debuted on E! in 2007, begins with an irreverent home scene. Kim Kardashian, the undisputed protagonist of the present, rummages through the fridge as she’s teased by her family for the dimensions of her posterior.

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“I think she’s bought slightly junk in her trunk,” says Kris Jenner, the family’s matriarch and “momager.” She calls her daughter’s butt “jiggly,” as Kim’s sister Khloé Kardashian chimes in from the kitchen table, “Kim’s always had an ass.”

That the opener of the watershed actuality present-which ends June 10 after 20 seasons-centered on the family’s fixation on Kim’s rear foreshadowed the now-ubiquitous public obsession with her body, and notably that particular function of it. This outsize fascination was maybe best embodied by her controversial 2014 Paper magazine cowl, shot by Jean-Paul Goude, the place her bare bottom is flanked by the line, “Break the Web Kim Kardashian.” On social media and in quite a few suppose pieces, the cover drew comparisons to Saartjie Baartman, the 19th-century South African girl recognized because the “Hottentot Venus.”

In this problematic comparison lie the troubling roots of the obsession with the Kardashian aesthetic. Baartman was paraded semi-nude, her posterior exhibited as a curio of kinds for European audiences that would, for a worth, contact her body-a sobering symbol of the exploitation and degradation that Black girls and their our bodies have suffered for centuries. By distinction, Kim has explicitly benefitted from her a lot-talked-about determine, tapping into an audience that sees her as no bizarre white girl, however as an alternative as an exotic and interesting one.

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Read More: Kim Kardashian’s Nude Images and Saartjie’s Alternative: History’s Downside with Fascinating Our bodies

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It’s a vicious tradition that valorizes curves on rich, racially ambiguous white women, but stigmatizes these traits on Black girls; one that performs right into a longtime fascination with the aesthetics of Blackness and an unwillingness to interact with the ugliness of anti-Black racism at the identical time. And it’s within the Kardashian-Jenner sisters’ wholehearted embrace of this tension that their family has ceaselessly changed the ways society thinks about our bodies and sweetness, forging the requirements which have outlined the previous decade.

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Between their loyal viewership on television and massive social media presences (Kim was the most followed individual on Instagram in 2015 and at the moment has the sixth largest account with 227 million followers), the household blazed a path for a new model of celebrity: the influencer. Even after Keeping up with the Kardashians ends and the family moves on to their new deal to create content for Disney and Hulu, this legacy will remain. The Kardashian-Jenner look is ubiquitous: Closely contoured make-up, dramatically curvy our bodies and plumped lips have had cyclical moments of recognition, however they owe a lot of their mainstream favor lately to the vast influence of the sisters.

The ‘exotic’ white woman and cultural appropriation

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While the allure of the “exotic” white woman is as old as the longtime debates about Cleopatra’s racial background, Kim has pioneered the branding of it as an id, leveraging it for the creation of a trend and sweetness empire, leaning into the allure of her fame and infinite assets to type a model. A 2018 research by the American Society for Plastic Surgeons discovered that butt-enhancing procedures had elevated by 256% since 2000. From sporting Fulani braids, which have roots in West Africa, and attributing the type to Bo Derek, one other white lady, to the a number of occasions she’s been referred to as out for wearing Blackface by wearing skin-darkening makeup, Kim is no stranger to making deliberate beauty and style choices that rely on racial performance-then turning around and finding ways to capitalize on it. (Kim has staunchly denied doing Blackface-after she was accused of wearing Blackface for a 2017 KKW Beauty campaign, she told the new York Times that she “would clearly never wish to offend anybody,” and later changed the pictures.) Regardless of a cultural appropriation scandal forward of its launch, her shapewear line SKIMS has discovered a robust base of shoppers who put their belief in Kim and her hourglass form to ship a product that can assist their very own curves-or the curves that they get surgically to emulate her.

Her sisters have all adopted go well with, most notably her youngest sibling, Kylie Jenner, whose dramatic beauty and body evolution in current seasons peaked with a year-long denial of having lip fillers before she copped to having them in a confessional on the show. (In 2019, she sold a majority stake of the company to make-up large Coty for $600 million.) She then parlayed the controversy into promoting her Kylie Lip Kits, a enterprise that changed into Kylie Cosmetics, a multimillion-greenback cosmetics enterprise. At a beauty surgical procedure clinic in the U.Ok., inquiries into lip augmentation jumped 70% in 24 hours after the episode aired, while the American Society for Plastic Surgeons reported a double-digit increase in lip procedures performed in 2016, the year after Jenner stated she received filler.

The implications of Blackfishing

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Maybe it ought to come as no shock that the time period Blackfishing (a portmanteau of Black and catfishing that describes a step past cultural appropriation, when folks alter their appearance with makeup, cosmetic surgery, filters or digital editing to seem Black) originated on social media in 2018, properly into the reign of the Kardashian-Jenners’ reputation. Wanna Thompson, the journalist who coined the time period whereas elaborating on the phenomenon in a viral Twitter thread of “white ladies cosplaying as Black women” that featured countless Kardashian-Jenner simulacrum, says that the sisters, who have been criticized for acts like claiming that they “started wigs” to wearing grills, have played a significant role in normalizing and even popularizing Blackfishing with pictures of themselves projecting racial ambiguity.

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“They’ve been referred to as out for cultural appropriation for a decade plus now, and it’s no secret that they’ve adopted many kinds that Black girls or Black culture have created and made them more palatable,” Wanna Thompson says, recollecting when Kim wore cornrows and beauty writers dubbed them “boxer braids,” rebranding the longtime protecting type worn by Black ladies as a development inspired by boxers. “Now people think they’re copying the Kardashian-Jenners when they gown or do their hair or tan their pores and skin a sure manner.”

The white mainstream popularization of Black fashion or features by way of Blackfishing, a lot of which has been perpetuated by the Kardashians and Jenners, presents a sobering paradox: whereas it exhibits that beauty and body standards are shifting as they’ve at all times performed, this variation comes by the use of white girls, finally to the detriment of Black women. The shape an individual is born with is nothing to guage, however Kim and other white women with curves like hers aren’t subjected to the centuries-lengthy objectification, hypersexualization and disdain that Black ladies have confronted for their bodies. On this, the Kardashian-Jenner sisters’ affect is tip-to-toe: whereas Black girls like Florence “Flo-Jo” Griffith-Joyner were subject to racist and classist stereotypes for sporting elaborate nail artwork and acrylics-lengthy markers of Black women’s model and self-expression-Kylie was hailed for launching an modern trend when she started exhibiting off her nail artwork on social media.

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“It makes beauty standards adhere to whiteness much more intently,” says Ayanna Thompson, the creator of Blackface. ” What’s the most desirable factor: an attractive white girl who can look lovely even when she’s trying to look Black? “Because it’s like, ‘She’s so stunning, as a result of she’s white, even when she puts on the Blackface.’ It leaves Black women at the bottom rung of desirability.

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Some have steered that the sisters have strategically tried to distance themselves from accusations of appropriation and Blackfishing by way of their personal relationships or even advocacy work. As Allison P. Davis wrote in Vulture when Kim and Kanye West’s marriage ended, the Kardashian sisters’ “relationships with Black males, and the multiracial kids that they had with them, seemed to supply some kind of cultural cover for their appropriation.”

Performance and revenue

It’s the performative yet comparatively ephemeral space of social media, where a controversial picture could be shortly posted then deleted, that Ayanna Thompson argues has provided an setting especially ripe for the Kardashian-Jenner sisters-with their mixed social media audience of 771 million followers-to experiment with racial performance by the use of Blackfishing, which Ayanna Thompson sees as following in the racist tradition of Blackface minstrelsy.

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Whereas she’s fast to point out that the appropriation and efficiency of Blackness is nothing new, she explains that what is new are the methods of broadcasting and advertising and marketing it-something that the Kardashian-Jenners have executed exceptionally well and to an immense profit.

In September 2020, the identical month the Kardashian-Jenners announced that the collection was ending, Forbes estimated the family’s collective wealth at $2 billion; on the time, Forbes also estimated that Kim made solely 20% of her yearly revenue that year from showing on the present. The influence and incomes potential of the Kardashian-Jenners is poised for a robust future regardless of their tv work, due to their multiple manufacturers, savvy social media use and properly-established cultural presence.

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Ayanna Thompson factors to their white privilege, which permits them to undertake Black aesthetics with out having to stay the Black expertise, as a driving pressure behind their contributions to a brand new magnificence excellent for the mainstream. That I can like these things, which we may need to denigrate, but I don’t have to stay there. “That’s the final word power of whiteness, right? “There’s a cause why they’ve executed this and why they've made cash on this,” she says.